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Weaving Mohair

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Mohair is used for two types of textile manufacturing knitting and weaving.

The knitting side of mohair makes up 70% of the mohair production market while weaving makes up around 20% while the rest is made up of velour, upholstery and carpets.

The production of weaving mohair has a strict criteria. Mohair needs to be a length of a minimum shorn length of 115mm that is not stretched and does not include the tip in the measurement as this is a weak part of the staple. There should be no vegetation or other contamination, as well as little to no kemp. Strength is also important and can be tested by taking a good staple and pulling it quite hard as not to break. Strength is needed to withstand the speed and tension of the weaving machine.

Kemp is the chalky white hairs that stand out strongly in a fleece of mohair and don’t take the dyes very well. Hence why this is not a desirable quality we want in mohair as it devalues the ability of lustre, a characteristic mohair has over other natural fibres.

Amongst the strict criteria for weaving is strength.

Testing for strength in mohair is completed in a lab. It is tested to see if it can with stand a certain amount of strain without breaking. It needs to be strong to tolerate the speed of the shuttle on the weaving machine that creates the cloth.

Weaving mohair is used to create suiting material for high end men and womans’ fashion garments. The Japanese use it a lot in textile manufacturing because of its cooling factor in terms ie, that the mohair breaths and keeps the body cool. It is also strong and holds its character, in other words it doesn’t crease like other materials.

 

Weaving mohair is gaining good returns above knitting. In New Zealand we have just started trials to see if we have the weaving quality. After testing and classing to the standard required we are pleased to say that weaving mohair, though in its infancy, is making a positive start in the New Zealand Mohair industry.

In 2016 for our first trial for weaving mohair the prices paid to our producers was $34 (ASFKOW) a kilo for our top grade in the weaving. The average was $28.60 for weaving.

Please check out the latest prices under the pool payout menu on our website.